Foaming oil-in-water emulsion based on nonionic surfactants, a fatty phase and a crosslinked cationic or anionic polymer, and its use in topical applications

ABSTRACT

A forming oil-in-water emulsion in the form of a cream comprising, in an aqueous medium, at least: 
     a) from 5 to 20% of an exclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one foaming nonionic surfactant; 
     b) from 10 to 50% of an oily phase containing at least one water-insoluble oil whose solubility parameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen&#39;s solubility space satisfy the conditions: 
     
       
         15.5 (J/cm 3 ) ½ ≦dD≦18.0 (J/cm 3 ) ½   
       
     
     and 
     
       
         0 (J/cm 3 ) ½ ≦dA≦6.5 (J/cm 3 ) ½   
       
     
     with 
     
       
         dA=(dP 2 +dH 2 ) ½   
       
     
     c) and, as a gelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formed from at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and from a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenic unsaturation. This composition is useful in cosmetics, dermatology and hygiene as a base for cleansing products for the skin, the hair, the mucous membranes and the scalp.

This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 09/187,036, filed Nov. 6,1988, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,162,834, which is a continuation ofapplication Ser. No. 08/636,555 filed Apr. 23, 1996 abandoned, which areincorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to forming oil-in-water emulsions in theform of a cream which are based on nonionic surfactants, a specificfatty phase and a crosslinked polymer comprising a cationic or anionicmonomer containing ethylenic unsaturation. The present invention alsorelates to the use, in topical application, in particular in cosmeticsand dermatology, of the disclosed foaming oil-in-water emulsions.

Foaming creams for cleansing the skin, which have a smooth feel, aregenerally in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing detergentsurfactants and foaming agents. The oily phase makes it possible tosoften the skin after rinsing. However, the oily phase has a tendency toinhibit the foaming properties of these formulations; it is said to“break” the foam. Consequently, the oily phase is introduced intofoaming creams at low concentrations, generally of less than 5% byweight.

The surfactant systems used in foaming creams generally consist mainlyof anionic surfactants. Despite their high foaming power and their gooddetergency, anionic surfactants have a certain irritant potential withregard to the skin and the eyes, and are incompatible with a largenumber of gelling agents.

In order to reduce this irritant potential, amphoteric surfactantsand/or nonionic surfactants are combined with the anionic surfactants.In this regard, International patent application WO 93/02411 describescleansing foaming compositions containing a surfactant system consistingof anionic surfactants combined with amphoteric surfactants in thepresence of a water-insoluble oil and/or a wax.

A main object of the present invention is to be able to produce foamingcreams based on an exclusively nonionic foaming surfactant system whichmay contain large amounts of oil without, however, jeopardizing thefoaming power.

The prior art teaches that when compositions based on nonionicsurfactants and oil are prepared, the foaming power of thesecompositions decreases when the proportion of oil is increased, relativeto the surfactant system.

Such a teaching is illustrated, in particular, by European patentEP-617,954, which describes foaming cosmetic compositions comprising atleast one nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglucoside and/orpolyglycerolated type and at least one crosslinked copolymer of maleicanhydride/alkyl vinyl ether and optionally an oil in very lowproportions. This European patent document, however, does not describefoaming creams.

European patent EP-642,781 illustrates another aspect of this sameprinciple by describing acidic non-foaming creams in the form of stableoil-in-water emulsions comprising a nonionic surfactant system, largeamounts of oil and, as a stabilizer, crosslinkedacrylamide/2-acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid copolymers. Thecompositions described in this patent are non-foaming.

Cosmetic compositions for cleansing the skin are moreover known fromU.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681. These compositions are in the form ofoil-in-water emulsions comprising a surfactant with an HLB of greaterthan or equal to 10, an oily phase comprising a poly(alpha-olefin) and acarboxylic copolymer containing from 95.9 to 98.8% by weight of amonoolefinically unsaturated monomer chosen from acrylic, methacrylicand ethacrylic acids, and from 1 to 3.5% of an arylic, methacrylic orethacrylic acid ester with a C₁₀-C₃₀ alcohol. These compositions havethe drawback of having a sticky feel, a runny appearance and elasticbehavior. In addition, the foaming power of these compositions isinsufficient. The compositions according to the present inventionovercome these drawbacks of the prior art.

The Inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the goal which theyhad set could be achieved by novel aqueous foaming compositions, incream form, containing an exclusively nonionic surfactant system, afatty phase having specific properties which will be defined below, itbeing possible for this fatty phase to be present in a large amountrelative to the surfactant system, and a crosslinked polymer orcopolymer of a cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenicunsaturation.

The foaming creams in accordance with the invention are stable uponstorage, have excellent foaming properties, are of better tolerance andharmlessness with respect to the skin and the eyes, i.e., are lessirritating, when compared with the known foaming compositions and havegood cosmetic properties when handled and to the touch.

In addition, the compositions of the invention may contain large amountsof oils which may be up to 6 to 10 times the amount of nonionicsurfactants present in the formulation, without significantly affectingthe foaming power or the stability of the compositions.

It is thus possible to introduce large amounts of care oil, i.e., anyoil generally useful in the care of the skin and/or the hair, into suchcompositions and to obtain “two-in-one” foaming products.

The compositions according to the invention comprise, in a cosmeticallyacceptable aqueous medium, at least:

(a) from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of an exclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising atleast one foaming nonionic surfactant;

(b) from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of an oily phase comprising at least one water-insolubleoil, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil has solubilityparameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen's solubility space whichsatisfy the following conditions:

15.5 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dD≦18.0 (J/cm³)^(½)

and

0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dA≦6.5 (J/cm³)^(½)

with

dA=(dP²+dH²)^(½);

and

(c) as a gelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer orcopolymer formed from at least one cationic or anionic monomercontaining ethylenic unsaturation and from a crosslinking agentcontaining polyethylenic unsaturation; wherein said crosslinkedcopolymer does not comprise a copolymer containing a majority fractionof at least one olefinically unsaturated C₃-C₆ acid and a minorityfraction of at least one ester of an olefinically unsaturated C₃-C₆ acidwith a C₁₀-C₃₀ alcohol.

The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise, in acosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:

(a) from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of an exclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising atleast one foaming nonionic surfactant; and

(b) from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of an oily phase comprising at least one water-insolubleoil whose solubility parameters are as defined above.

The foaming nonionic surfactants used according to the present inventionare preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants having a foaming powerpreferably characterized by a foam height of more than 100 mm, morepreferably characterized by a foam height of more than 120 mm, measuredaccording to the Ross-Miles method for a 0.1% by weight solution ofsurfactant in distilled water at 25° C.

The foaming nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according tothe invention are more preferably chosen from:

(i) the compounds of formula (I):

 in which:

R represents aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic radical or amixture of radicals from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, it being possible for thealiphatic chains to be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched andto contain sulphur or oxygen atoms, in particular ether, thioether orhydroxymethylene groups;

n is any integer or fraction greater than 1 and less than or equal to 10and denotes the average degree of polymerization;

(ii) the compounds of formula (II)

R¹O(G)_(p)

 in which R¹ is a monovalent hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 30carbon atoms, G is a saccharide derivative containing from 5 to 6 carbonatoms and p is a statistical average value ranging and 1 to 6; and

(iii) mixture thereof.

The compounds of formula (I) are described in French Patent No. FR2,091,516, the disclosure of which is incorporated specifically byreference herein. Compounds of formula (I) are obtained bypolycondensation of an α-diol containing a fatty chain onto theglycidyol.

Preferred compounds of formula (I) are those in which R represents analkyl radical or a mixture of alkyl radicals containing from 9 to 12atoms and n represents an average statictical value ranging from 3 to 4.

Dodecanediol polyglycerolated with 3.5 mol of glycerol, sold under thename CHIMEXANE NF by the company Chimex, is particularly used.

The compounds of formula (II) are described, in particular, inInternational patent application WO 94/27562, the disclosure of which isspecifically incorporated by reference herein. The preferred compoundsare those for which the radical R¹ is a C₈-C₁₆ alkyl radical, and evenmore preferred are those compounds whose degree of polymerization isequal to 1.4 or 1.6.

Examples of the compounds of formula (II) which may be mentioned are:

the alkylpolyglycosides marketed by Henkel under the names APG 225, APG425 and APG 625;

the alkylpolyglucosides marketed by Henkel under the name GLUCOPON,similar to APG 625, but with a different degree of polymerization;

the alkylpolyglycosides marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTAREN,such as PLANTAREN 2000, which is a C₈-C₁₆-alkylpolyglucoside with adegree of polymerization of 1.4; PLANTAREN 1200, which is aC₁₂-C₁₈-alkylpolyglucoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.4; andPLANTAREN 1300, which is a C₁₂-C₁₈-alkylpolyglycoside with a degree ofpolymerization of 1.6.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain foamingsilicone nonionic surfactants such as the polydimethylsiloxanescontaining a polyoloside group, for instance SLM SPG 120 from thecompany Wacker or the polydimethylsiloxane derivatives containingalkylphosphobetaine groups, such as PECOSIL SPB-1240 from the companyUCIB.

The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility spaceaccording to Hansen is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “Thethree dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105(1967). Specifically:

dD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formationof dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

dP characterizes the Debye forces of interaction between permanentdipoles;

dH characterizes the specific forces of interaction (of the type:hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

dA is determined by the equation:

dA=(d^(P)+dH²)^(½)

The parameters dD, dP, dH and dA are expressed in (J/cm³)^(½).

According to the present invention, the oily phase preferably comprisesat least one oil such that 15.5≦dD≦18.0 and 0≦dA≦6.5. The parameters dDand dA more preferably satisfy the condition: 16.0≦dD≦18.0 and 0≦dA≦5.5.

Among the oils satisfying the inequalities 15.5≦dD≦18.0 and 0≦dA≦6.5,those which may preferably by mentioned, for example, as:

mineral oils such as liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum;

oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

oils of plant origin such as jojoba oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil,karite butter and the liquid fraction thereof; and

synthetic oils such as fatty esters, for instance purcellin oil,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,isosteryl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate and hydrogenatedisoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene).

The oily phase of the compositions according to the invention may alsocontain other types of oils which do not satisfy the conditions ofHansen's solubility parameters determined above, such as, for example,triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, octyldodecanol, andisohexadecane.

These other oils, if present, are preferably present in the oily phaseat concentrations of less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the oily phase. The oily phase thus preferably comprisesfrom 85 to 100% of oil corresponding to the conditions relating toparameters dD and dA defined above.

The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers used in the compositionsaccording to the invention preferably comprise at least one cationic oranionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and a crosslinkingagent containing polyethylenic unsaturation.

The anionic monomer is preferably chosen from (meth)acrylic acid,ammonium (meth)acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid,as well as their salts.

The cationic monomer is preferably chosen from dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylates, more preferably dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, andfrom dialkylaminoalkyhl(meth)acrylamides and quaternary salts or acidsthereof, the alkyl radicals preferably being C₁-C₄.

The crosslinked copolymers according to the invention preferablycomprise a nonionic comonomer chosen from methacrylamide, acylamide andC₁₀-C₃₀ esters of (meth)acrylic acid.

The crosslinking agents containing polyethylenic unsaturation arepreferably chosen from divinylbenzene; tetraallyloxyethane; diallylether; polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers; allyl ethers of alcohols from thesugar series such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, sorbitol orglucose; methylenebis(acrylamide); ethylene glycol di-(methyl)acrylate;di-(meth)acrylamide; cyanomethyl acrylate; vinyloxyethyl (meth)acrylateand metal salts of any of these compounds.

The sugars included in the sugar series, as referred to in the precedingparagraph, preferably comprise sugars containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms,including monosaccharides such as fructose, glucose, galactose, xylose,mannose, lyxose, arabinose, and mixtures of these, and oligosaccharidessuch as maltose, xylobiose, isomallose, cellobiose, gentiobiose,lactose, sucrose, nigerose, turanose, faffinose, gentianose, melezitose,and mixtures of these.

The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers in accordance with theinvention are preferably chosen from:

(a) acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with an allyl ether of analcohol from the sugar series, such as the products sold under the namesCARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Goodrich or theproducts sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company3 VSA;

(b) copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which ispartially or totally neutralized (with a base such as sodium hydroxide,potassium hydroxide or an amine) and of acrylamide, such as the productdescribed in Example 1 of European patent application EP-A-503,853;

(c) ammonium acrylate homopolymers such as the product sold under thename MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst, or copolymers of ammoniumacrylate and of acrylamide, such as the product sold under the nameBOZEPOL C NOUVEAU, or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst(which are described and prepared in French patent No. FR 2,416,723, andU.S. Pat. Nos. 2,798,053 and 2,923,692, the disclosures of which areincorporated by reference);

(d) crosslinked homopolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylatequaternized with methyl chloride, such as the products sold under thenames SALCARE 95 and SALCARE 96 by the company Allied Colloids, or thecopolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate which is quaternized withmethyl chloride and of acrylamide, such as the product SALCARE SC92 soldby Allied Colloids, or the product PAS 5194 sold by Hoechst (which aredescribed and prepared in European patent application EP-A-395,282, thedisclosure of which is incorporated by reference).

The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers are present in thecompositions of the invention at active material concentrationspreferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to8% by weight, and more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relativeto the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain emulsifyingnonionic surfactants such as oxyethylenated alkylphenols, such as theproduct sold under the name NIKKOLI HCO (oxyethylenated hydrogenatedricinoleic triglycerides (60 EO)) by the company Nikkol, or the productsold under the name SOLUBILISANT LRI (oxyethylenated butyl alcohol (26EO)) with a mixture of oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil (40 EO)and water (54/36) by the company Wacker. They are preferably present atconcentrations ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight and more preferably from0.5 to 1.5% by weight.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also containthickening agents which have a low flow threshold, namely agents whichcan flow under their own weight and which have a low gelling power.Examples which may be mentioned are natural gelling agents such asgalactomannans, for instance guar and carob; carrageenans such asD-galactopyranose (product AUBYGUM X2 sold by the company Sanofi);sodium alginates (polymannuronate and guluronate); cellulose andderivatives thereof such as methylcellulose, propylcellulose,hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; xanthan gums such as those consisting ofD-glucose, D-mannose and D-glucuronic acid; fucose-rich polysaccharidessuch as the product FUCOGEL 1000 sold by the company Solabia.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain fromsynergists such as alkanolamides, for instance monoethanolamides anddialkanolamides; and more particularly monoisopropanolamides anddiethanolamides; alkylamidodimethylamines; amine oxide derivatives suchas alkyldimethylamine oxides, alkyldihydroxyethylamine oxides,alkylamidomethylamine oxides, alkylamidohydroxyethylamine oxides andalkylamidohydroxyethylamine oxides. They are preferably present inconcentrations of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain, inthe oily phase, one or more lipophilic cosmetic and/or dermatologicalactive agents such as, for example, anti-free-radical agents, ceramides,lipophilic formulation additives such as preserving agents, antioxidantsand perfumed oils.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain, in theaqueous medium, hydrophilic cosmetic and/or dermatological active agentswhich are commonly used, such as polyols, for instance glycerol,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether, the monoethanolamine salt of1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (or piroctone olamine)such as the product OCTOPIROX sold by the company Hoechst, alpha-hydroxyacids, keratolytic agents such as urea, salicylic acid and derivativesthereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, antibacterial agents,antiseborrhoreic agents and antidandruff agents. The compositionsaccording to the invention may contain standard formulation additivessuch as pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers suchas talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, and expandedthermoplastic hollow particles such as the product EXPANCEL 550 DE 20sold by the company Nobel Casco.

The compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosityranging from 1.5 to 6 Pa s and more preferably ranging from 2.5 to 4 Pas.

The compositions according to the invention, i.e., in cream form,produce sufficiently abundant foam on contact with water.

Another subject of the invention is of a cosmetic or dermatologicalcomposition for cleansing the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair orthe scalp, comprising a foaming cream as defined above.

The foaming creams of the invention may be used as bases for productsfor the cleansing of/removal of make-up from the skin, the eyes and/orthe face.

The foaming creams of the invention may also be used as bases forcleansing and care products for the hair or the scalp, such astwo-in-one shampoos.

The foaming creams of the invention may also be used as bases forhygiene and care products for the skin and/or the body, such astwo-in-one shower creams.

Another subject of the invention is directed to a process for cleansingthe skin, the mucous membranes, the hair or the scalp, which comprisesapplying in the presence of water, to the skin, the mucous membranes,the hair or the scalp, a cosmetically effective amount of anoil-in-water emulsion as described above to obtain a foam; and removing,by rinsing with water, any foam or dirt residues from the skin, mucousmembranes, hair or scalp.

Obviously, a person skilled in the art will take care to select thepossible additional compound or compounds and/or the amounts thereofsuch that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with theternary combination in accordance with the invention are not damaged, orare not substantially damaged, by the addition or additions envisaged.

The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the inventionwithout, however, limiting the scope thereof.

EXAMPLES

In all the examples of foaming creams which follow, the amount of foamproduced was measured according to the following method:

2.5 g of test composition diluted in 50 ml of water were placed in atall 400 ml beaker.

A foam was formed by stirring the composition in solution for 6 minutesat 1320 rev/minute using a Turbotest 10-14 Rayneri machine equipped witha centripetal rod of diameters 30-40-55 cm; the latter was placedoff-center to the left in the beaker.

The product obtained was then transferred into a 500 ml measuringcylinder with an error of 2.5 ml.

The volume of the product obtained (foam) was measured at time intervalsof t=0, t=3 minutes, and t=5 minutes.

If a foam volume of less than 150 ml or decomposition of the foam afterstanding for a few minutes was obtained with the test composition bythis method for measuring the volume of the foam, the foaming propertiesof the test composition were considered to be mediocre and unusable forcosmetic, dermatological or hygienic use.

Examples 1 to 7

EXAMPLES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 GELLING AGENTS: Carbopol 980° 0.9 g 0.9 g 1.1 g —0.9 g — — Synthalon K.° — — — — — 1 g — PAS 5183° — — — — — — 6 gSalcare SC 95° — — — 4 g — — Gelling agent(s) additives Aubigum X2° — —0.1 g — — — — NONIONIC SURFACTANTS: Chimazane Nf° 5 g 5 g 5 g 5 g 5 g 5g 5 g Surfactant of formula (I) — — — — — — 2 g SLM SPG 120° — — — — 1 g— — Nikkol MCO-60° FILLERS: Expancol 551 DE 20° — — 0.75 g — — — OIL(S):Liquid petrolatum — — — — 50 g — — Liquid fraction of kante butterSesame oil 25 g — — 25 g — — 5 g Rapeseed oil — — 20 g — — — — — 25 g —— — 10 g — Triglycerides of capylric/capric acids — — 3 g — — — — ACTIVEAGENTS Piroctone alamine 0.2 g — 0.2 g — — — — Lactic acid — — — — — —0.2 g 5-n-Octanoylsallcylic acid — — 0.2 g — — — — Sodium hydroxide 0.18g 0.18 g 0.18 g — 0.18 g 0.18 g — Glycerol 6 g 6 g 6 g 6 g 6 g — 3 gWater qs 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g Preserving agent(s)qs Antioxidant(s) qs Volume of foam (ml) 255 240 200 260 210 255 265

Each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 7 had satisfactory foamingproperties.

Examples 8 to 14

EXAMPLES 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 GELLING AGENTS: Carbopol 980° 0.9 g 0.9 g 11g — 0.9 g — — Synthalon K.° — — — — — 1 g — PAS 5183° — — — — — — 5 gSalcare SC 95° — — — 4 g — — Gelling agent(s) additives Aubigum X2° — —0.1 g — — — — NONIONIC SURFACTANTS: Plantaren 2000° 10 g 10 g 10 g 10 g10 g 10 g 10 g Surfactant of formula (II) SLM SPG 120° — — — — — — 2 gNikkol MCO-60° — — — — 1 g — — FILLERS: Expancol 551 DE 20° — — 0.75 g —— — OIL(S): Liquid fraction of kante butter 25 g — — 25 g 50 g — 5 gSesame oil — — 20 g — — — — Rapeseed oil — 25 g — — 10 g — Triglyceridesof capylric/capric acids — — 3 g — — — ACTIVE AGENTS Piroctone alamine0.2 g — 0.2 g — — — 0.2 g Lactic acid — — — — — — —5-n-Octanoylsallcylic acid — — 0.2 g — — — — Sodium hydroxide 0.18 g0.18 g 0.18 g — 0.18 g 0.18 g — Glycerol 6 g 6 g 6 g 6 g 6 g — 3 g Waterqs 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g Preserving agent(s) qsAntioxidant(s) qs Volume of foam (ml) 255 240 200 260 210 255 265 (*)starting material containing 50% active material

Each of the compositions of Examples 8 to 14 had satisfactory foamingproperties.

Comparative Examples

The amount of the foam obtained from different creams containingdifferent oils and having different values of Hansen solubilityparameters dA and dD were studied. The compositions of the inventioncontaining, as the oily phase, an oil satisfying the relationships15.5≦dD≦18 and 0≦dA≦6.5, was compared with compositions containing, asthe oily phase, an oil which did not satisfy these conditions. Thevolume of foam was measured according to the method defined above.

The test compositions had the formulation:

nonionic surfactant of formula (I)  5.0 g CHIMEXANE NF oil of dA, dDparameters  25.0 g crosslinked acrylic homopolymer  0.9 g gelling agentCARBOPOL 980 water qs 100.0 g

The oils used were:

isohexadecane

2-ethylhexyl palmitate

2-octyldodecyl stearate

2-octyldodecyl erucate

isostearyl isostearate

2-octyldodecyl benzoate

jojoba oil

sesame oil

triglycerides of capric/caprylic acids

octyldodecanol.

The results are summarized in the following table:

Oil used in the test Volume of composition dD (J/cm³) ® dA (J/cm³) ®foam (ml) Isohexadecane 15.32 0 105 2-Octyldodecyl erucate 16.36 3.21265 Jojoba oil 16.33 3.33 265 2-Octyldodecyl stearate 16.40 3.37 260Isostearyl isostearate 16.31 3.46 245 2-Octyldodecyl benzoate 17.08 4.21220 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate 16.20 4.23 190 Sesame oil 16.36 4.85 260Triglycerides of capric/ 16.64 6.69 70 caprylic acids Octyldodecanol.16.36 7.69 65

The results obtained show that the phases consisting of oils notcorresponding to the conditions determined on the Hansen solubilityparameters, namely 15.5≦dD≦18 and 0≦dA≦6.5, do not make it possible toobtain creams having satisfactory foaming properties; this is the casefor isohexandecane, triglycerides of capric/caprylic acids andoctyldodecanol.

What is claimed is:
 1. A foaming oil-in-water emulsion in the form of acream, which comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, atleast: a) from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition, of a nonionic surfactant system consisting of at least onefoaming nonionic surfactant and at least one emulsifying nonionicsurfactant, wherein said at least one foaming nonionic surfactant isselected from: i) the compounds of formula (I):

in which: R represents an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphaticradical or a mixture of radicals having from 7 to 21 carbon atoms,wherein the aliphatic chains are saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched, and may contain sulphur or oxygen atoms; and n represents anyinteger or fraction greater than 1 and less than or equal to 10 anddenotes the degree of polymerization; ii) the compounds of formula (II)R¹O(G)_(p)  in which R¹ is a monovalent hydrocarbon chain containingfrom 1 to 30 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide containing from 5 to 6carbon atoms and p is a statistical average value ranging from 1 to 6;iii) polydimethylsiloxanes containing glucoside groups andpolydimethylsiloxanes containing alkylphosphobetaine groups; and iv)mixtures of the above compounds; and wherein said at least oneemulsifying nonionic surfactant is present in an amount up to 2% byweight and is selected from oxyethylenated alkylphenols; b) from 10 to50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of anoily phase comprising from 85 to 100% by weight of at least onewater-insoluble oil, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil hassolubility parameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen's solubilityspace which satisfy the conditions: 15.5 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dD≦18.0 (J/cm³)^(½)and 0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dA≦6.5 (J/cm³)^(½) with dA=(dP²+dH²)^(½); and c) as agelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formedfrom at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenicunsaturation and from a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenicunsaturation; wherein said copolymer does not comprise copolymerscontaining a majority fraction of at least one olefinically unsaturatedC₃-C₆ acid and a minority fraction of at least one ester of anolefinically unsaturated C₃-C₆ acid with a C₁₀-C₃₀ alcohol.
 2. Anemulsion according to claim 1, which comprises: a) from 5 to 10% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of anexclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one foamingnonionic surfactant; and b) from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition, of an oily phase comprising at leastone water-insoluble oil whose solubility parameters according toHansen's solubility space are as defined in claim
 1. 3. An emulsionaccording to claim 1, wherein said at least one foaming nonionicsurfactant has a foaming power determined by a foam height of more than100 mm according to the Ross-Miles method for a 0.1% by weight solutionin distilled water at 25° C.
 4. An emulsion according to claim 1,wherein said compounds of formula (1) are selected from those in which Rrepresents a C₉-C₁₂ alkyl radical or a mixture of radicals and nrepresents a statistical value ranging from 3 to
 4. 5. An emulsionaccording to claim 1, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil isselected from mineral oils, oils of animal origin and synthetic oils. 6.An emulsion according to claim 5, wherein said at least onewater-insoluble oil is selected from liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum,perhydrosqualene, jojoba oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, karite butter,the liquid fraction of karite butter, purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearylisostearate and 2-octyldodecyl benzoate and hydrogenated isoparaffin(6.8 mol of isobutylene).
 7. An emulsion according to claim 1, whichfurther comprises at least one water-insoluble oil whose solubilityparameters dA and dD satisfy the conditions: 16.0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dD≦18.0(J/cm³)^(½) and 0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dA≦5.5 (J/cm³)^(½).
 8. An emulsionaccording to claim 1, wherein said gelling agent comprises a crosslinkedhomopolymer or copolymer formed from at least one anionic monomerselected from (meth)acrylic acid, ammonium (meth)acrylate,2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and the salts of saidcompounds.
 9. An emulsion according to claim 1, wherein said gellingagent comprises a crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formed from atleast one cationic monomer selected from dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylamides and the quaternarysalts and acids or said compounds.
 10. An emulsion according to claim 1,wherein said crosslinking agent containing polyethylenic unsaturation isselected from divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, diallyl ether,polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, allyl polyglyceryl ethers, allyl ethersof alcohols from the sugar series, methylenebis(acrylamide), ethyleneglycol di-methacrylate, di-(meth)acrylamide, cyanomethyl acrylate,vinyloxyethyl (meth)acrylate and the metal salts of said compounds. 11.An emulsion according to claim 8, wherein said crosslinked homopolymeror copolymer is further formed from a nonionic comonomer selected fromacrylamide, methacrylamide and C₁₀-C₃₀ esters of (meth)acrylic acid. 12.An emulsion according to claim 1, wherein said gelling agent is selectedfrom: (a) acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with an allyl ether ofan alcohol from the sugar series; (b) crosslinked copolymers of2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which is partially or totallyneutralized and of acrylamide; (c) crosslinked homopolymers of ammoniumacrylate or crosslinked copolymers of ammonium acrylate and ofacrylamide; and (d) crosslinked homopolymers of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or the copolymers of thissame monomer with acrylamide.
 13. An emulsion according to claim 1,wherein said gelling agent is present in active material concentrationsranging from 0.8 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of saidemulsion.
 14. An emulsion according to claim 1, which further comprisesat least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant, said at least oneemulsifying nonionic surfactant being different from said at least onefoaming nonionic surfactant.
 15. An emulsion according to claim 1, whichfurther comprises at least one thickening agent.
 16. An emulsionaccording to claim 15, wherein said at least one thickening agent isselected from galactomannans, carrageenans, sodium alginates, celluloseand derivatives thereof, xanthan gums, and fucose-rich polysaccharides.17. An emulsion according to claim 1, which further comprises at leastone foam synergist.
 18. An emulsion according to claim 17, wherein saidat least one foam synergist is selected from alkanolamides,alkylamidodimethylamines and amine oxide derivatives.
 19. An emulsionaccording to claim 1, which further comprises at least one additiveselected from lipophilic or hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatologicalactive agent, antioxidant, preserving agent, fragrance, antibacterialagent, antiseborrhoreic agent, antidandruff agent, pigment, keratolyticagent, dye, pearlescent agent, inorganic filler and organic filler. 20.An emulsion according to claim 1, which has a viscosity ranging from 2.5to 6 Pa s.
 21. An emulsion according to claim 20, which has a viscosityranging from 2.5 to 4 Pa.
 22. A process for cleansing the skin, themucous membranes, the hair, or the scalp, which comprises: applying, inthe presence of water, to the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair orthe scalp, a cosmetically effective amount of an oil-in-water emulsionaccording to claim 1 to obtain a foam; and removing, by rinsing withwater, any foam or dirt residues from said skin, mucous membranes, hairor scalp.
 23. A cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing theskin, the mucous membranes, the hair or the scalp, which comprises aneffective amount of a foaming oil-in-water emulsion in the form of acream, which emulsion comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueousmedium, at least: from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition, of a nonionic surfactant system consisting of atleast one foaming nonionic surfactant and at least one emulsifyingnonionic surfactant: wherein said at least one foaming nonionicsurfactant is selected from: i) the compounds of formula (I):

in which: R represents an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphaticradical or a mixture of radicals having from 7 to 21 carbon atoms,wherein the aliphatic chains are saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched, and may contain sulphur or oxygen atoms; and n represents anyinteger or fraction greater than 1 and less than or equal to 10 anddenotes the degree of polymerization; ii) the compounds of formula (II)R¹O(G)_(p)  in which R¹ is a monovalent hydrocarbon chain containingfrom 1 to 30 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide containing from 5 to 6carbon atoms and p is a statistical average value ranging from 1 to 6;iii) polydimethylsiloxanes containing glucoside groups andpolydimethylsiloxanes containing alkylphosphobetaine groups; and iv)mixtures of the above compounds; and wherein said at least oneemulsifying nonionic surfactant is present in an amount up to 2% weightand is selected from oxyethylenated alkylphenols; b) from 10 to 50% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an oilyphase comprising from 85 to 100% by weight of at least onewater-insoluble oil, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil hassolubility parameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen's solubilityspace which satisfy the conditions: 15.5 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dD≦18.0 (J/cm³)^(½)and 0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dA≦6.5 (J/cm³)^(½) with dA=(dP²+dH²)^(½); and c) as agelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formedfrom at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenicunsaturation and from a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenicunsaturation; wherein said copolymer does not comprise copolymerscontaining a majority fraction of at least one olefinically unsaturatedC₃-C₆ acid and a minority fraction of at least one ester of anolefinically unsaturated C₃-C₆ acid with a C₁₀-C₃₀ alcohol.
 24. Aprocess for cleansing and/or caring for the skin, for removing make-upfrom the skin, the eyes and the face, and/or for cleansing and caringfor the hair, which comprises applying thereto a cosmetically effectiveamount of a foaming oil-in-water emulsion as a case, which emulsion isin the form of a cream and, which comprises, in an cosmeticallyacceptable aqueous medium, at least: a) from 5 to 20% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition, of a nonionicsurfactant system consisting of at least one foaming nonionic surfactantand at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant; wherein said at leastone foaming nonionic surfactant is selected from: i) the compounds offormula (I):

in which: R represents an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphaticradical or a mixture of radicals having from 7 to 21 carbon atoms,wherein the aliphatic chains are saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched, and my contain sulfur or oxygen atoms; and n represents anyinteger or fraction greater than 1 and less than or equal to 10 anddenotes the degree of polymerization; ii) the compounds of formula (II)R¹O(G)_(p)  in which R¹ is a monovalent hydrocarbon chain containingfrom 1 to 30 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide containing from 5 to 6carbon atoms and p is a statistical average value ranging from 1 to 6;iii) polydimethylsiloxanes containing glucoside groups andpolydimethylsiloxanes containing alkylphosphobetaine groups; and iv)mixtures of the above compounds; and wherein said at least oneemulsifying nonionic surfactant is present in an amount up to 2% byweight and is selected from oxyethylenated alkylphenols; b) from 10 to50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of anoily phase comprising from 85 to 100% by weight of at least onewater-insoluble oil, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil hassolubility parameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen's solubilityspace which satisfy the conditions: 15.5 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dD≦18.0 (J/cm³)^(½)and 0 (J/cm³)^(½)≦dA≦6.5 (J/cm³)^(½) with dA=(dP²+dH²)^(½); and c) as agelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formedfrom at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenicunsaturation and from a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenicunsaturation; wherein said copolymer does not comprise copolymerscontaining a majority fraction of at least one olefinically unsaturatedC₃-C₆ acid and a minority fraction of at least one ester of anolefinically unsaturated C₃-C₆ acid with a C₁₀-C₃₀ alcohol.